Saturday, January 20, 2018

Day 36-38 Puyuhuapi Lodge & Spa, Aysen Region, Puyuhuapi, Patagonia,Chile



  Today we traveled from Puerto Chacabuco to a heavenly spot, the Puyuhuapi Lodge and Spa. It is as tranquil and serene a place as one could ever imagine! 
   However, it is only accessible by sea. To get to the boat dock, we drove a very wet and epic 120 miles on the Carretera Austral highway. Some portions were paved and other parts were mud and gravel. Some spots had switchbacks that were a tad hair-raising.  Nevertheless, the journey was well worth it for we've found a little bit of heaven in Puyuhuapi at the "Termas de Puyuhuapi", the Puyuhuapi Lodge and Spa. 

     We left Puerto Chacabuco early in the morning and drove on the paved portion of Carretera Austral highway thru bucolic pastures 




by thunderous waterfalls


         

and on the mountainous road through four hours of torrential rain.



We passed  falling rocks on the road, which were massive,


and passed road workers helping vehicles in need of assistance.




Then the Carretera Austral highway became nearly 40 miles of a gravel road with very precarious tight switchbacks!


 This portion of the trip was not for the faint of heart. 


Billboards are virtually non-existant in Chile; but when they do appear, they illustrate  how the Carretera Austral highway will look in the near future.  Here the billboard is strategically positioned 


on this tight turn, looking like it was placed there to prevent one from plunging into the sea!

Finally, we turned off the gravel portion of the Carretera Austral highway. We headed down a steep side road to the "dock" where the lodge's speed boat will pick us up to take us to the Puyuhuapi Lodge and Spa. Due to the intense wind and rain, we had to wait for many wet hours at the boat "dock" for the boat to arrive.



During our 3 hour wait, the rain finally stopped and incredibly, the sun came out and the sky turned a beautiful blue!


While standing on the mainland, in the picture above, we couldn't see the Puyuhuapi Lodge and Spa for it is located far behind the islands.

The lodge's speed boat picked us up and we were off!


 We motored for 30 minutes over the Puyuhuapi Channel to the shores of Dorita Bay into what appeared to be a lake but was actually a tidal inlet of the ocean.  

Then up ahead, there it was, gently nestled in a stunning natural environment of hot springs, waterfalls, mountains and glaciers.

 
From the moment we first set eyes on the lodge, stretching out across its own beautiful bay,  we knew our experience at the Puyuhuapi Lodge and Spa would be a special one!



This peaceful eco-lodge with its Chilean architecture of wood, tile and stone is a world unto its own. 

 The lodge does not have television, nor internet, nor cell service. But, what it does have to offer is tranquility. 
   Our comfortable room led directly out to our sprawling deck which was cantilevered over the beach. 


We were in the middle of a very private, quiet environment surrounded by spectacular scenery. It was not hard to unplug and start relaxing.
Talk about a room with a view!

   The sound of the waves lapping on the shore below our deck and the whisper of the hummingbirds flying past us was lovely to hear. Sitting on the deck, sipping our wine, we enjoyed relaxing in the serenity of Chilean Patagonia. It was well worth the drive down the Carretera Highway!






 At the Puyuhuapi Lodge and Spa, the heating and hot water are prolific and entirely natural, powered by the same volcanic springs which gush into the indoor and outdoor thermal pools.

 It is because the Lodge is located within 3 different water sources: fresh water from the waterfalls, salt water from the sea and thermal water from the earth, that their spa has a lot to offer, not the least of which is their indoor swimming pool filled with hot springs' water complete with a thermal waterfall inviting one to fully relax. There are also numerous smaller thermal pools in addition to 2 jacuzzis of various temperatures and even a cold fresh water shower from the rocks on the walls. Every thermal pool offered us spectacular views of Dorita Bay and the surrounding Andes mountains.
Related image



Each day we enjoyed the marvelous warm and sunny weather.



   The visibility was astounding. We could see the entire fjord and especially the peaks of the stunning Andes Mountains. 


We loved exploring the lodge's grounds, 
          

walking along the stone pathways which were lined with enormous ferns. 


many of which were so huge that it looked as if they could touch the sky.


There were also hundreds of "nalcas", which is the Patagonian rhubarb, with their enormous leaves and fruit. Jeff is in the lower left hand corner.


As impressive as the Jurassic style ferns and nalcas were, for us, it was the fuschias that stole the show.




Everywhere we walked, the fuschia bushes, which are more like trees than bushes, created a colorful overhead archway, attracting dozens of hummingbirds. 

       

These Patagonia hummingbirds ignored us as many buzzed by collecting nectar from blossom to blossom, while other hummingbirds were chirping away from one to another. Our walks were filled with vibrant sights and sounds.
       
There's Jeff in the lower left below.




Because it was the start of the "off season", we had the Lodge and Spa virtually all to ourselves! It was heavenly!


There were numerous outdoor thermal pools that led to the sea. We would just relax in the hot springs, gazing at the spectacular spectacle of the Andes and the ocean.


            

Virtually every turn on the trail led to yet another lovely outdoor thermal pool.



  38 degrees Celcius  is around 
 104 degrees Fahrenheit.








Lounge chairs and chaises lined the thermal pools and invited one to soak up the view.



             



 Each day's astoundingly clear sky with its breathtaking scenery carried into the night.
 The twilight of the evening's beautiful blue sky



gave way to a night sky which was alive with the light of spectacular stars and brilliant constellations. The splendor of the sky was astounding. It was hard to leave the the deck and go to sleep. 


  Each morning dawned with a another dazzling display of nature. The heat from the hot springs with the morning dew created a mystical illusion.









We savored these views from our deck 

and throughout the lodge's scenic paths





                     

And of course our glorious time in the thermal pools.







It seemed  only fitting that the tide was out as our time to leave drew near.


All too soon it was time to leave and yet our memories of this little slice of Heaven will live in our hearts for a very long time.